Where can I get parts?
Toro has acquired the Gilson legacy through the purchase of Lawnboy which in turn had purchased Gilson. Your local LawnBoy dealer is your contact point for original equipment parts. Be sure to bring your machines model number with you, see: How do I identify my Gilson snowblower? Some parts remained in use for over 15 years so there are a lot of machines carrying some of these parts. As the legacy continues to mature more and more obscure items will go out of stock. If you see a need for a part coming on I suggest you try to purchase it at your first opportunity, tomorrow may be too late. Find your local LawnBoy dealer. You may also order parts online.

Consider keeping your eyes open for a parts machine. Remember that since Gilson built many private brand machines the decals and color may not match. You should be able to get a complete machine minus the engine for well under $100. Depending on what you need for parts this can be a great bargain. Just visit local dealers to see what they have in their "graveyards". This can be a great hedge against the day when parts support will be discontinued.

Do not under estimate generic parts sources. Some items such as friction wheels for the UniTrol machines are also available on the aftermarket. Remove your drive belts and have them measured while they are still in good shape, buy a spare set while you're at it. Be sure to read: What about belts? If a bearing fails many are common items you can get at a local bearing supply house such as Bearings Specialty Company or look in your yellow pages under BEARINGS then bring your old parts in for matching. The same holds true for gears, many are standard profiles, you may need a local machine shop to add a key-way or size a bore. Ask the clerk at the bearing shop, often they know of small local shops that will do small jobs like this on a walk in basis. Other items such as spacers, pins, grease fittings and such can be found at a good local hardware store.

From time to time I acquire machines that due to incompleteness or overall condition simply will never be running machines again. These machines get parted down to support surviving machines in my collection. Over time I have accumulated surpluss quantities of some items including many that have not been available for years. Let me know if you are in need of a discontinued Gilson snowblower part. All inquiries are handled on a case by case basis.

Finally in some cases you may need to enlist a local machine shop or welder to fabricate a replacement part. Try to find a small machine shop. Large shops have a lot of overhead and usually can't do this sort of work at an affordable price. What you want is what is referred to as a garage or basement shop, usually a one man operation and in some cases part time. Bring in the damaged part and any other parts that the new one will have to be fit up with.

Engine parts or service can be obtained from nearly any power equipment dealer or online. Many common needs can be found here. If you go in to buy parts be sure to bring all of the numbers stamped on the engine. Many dealers can also get transmission parts direct from the original manufacturers such as Peerless, ask around and bring any available numbers and parts.

What kind of oil should I use?
What you use for crankcase oil in your 4 cycle (Gilson) snowblower has become a complicated question. Most engines are permanently marked with a suggested oil for winter use. That recommendation has changed over time and oil technology has also advanced. Many older engines suggested SAE 10W oil for winter use. Along the way it became SAE 5-20. I'm sure there have been other variations as well. Either one of these oils will do a fine job in moderate winter temperatures. The problems start in extreme cold. Petroleum oils begin to change states when you start getting below -10F. There are 2 important properties you can read up on if you like they are "POUR POINT" and "PUMPING TEMPERATURE" the bottom line from my experience and research is that when you get into sub zero Fahrenheit conditions conventional petroleum oils no longer perform as expected. They begin to thicken and eventually certain components begin to solidify. When this happens in an engine that relies on splash or slinger lubrication the lubricant can get whipped into a froth and put the engine at risk. Exactly what temperature this will happen at depends on your exact brand and grade of oil. For me the simple solution has been to switch to 5-30 synthetic such as "Mobil-1". 5-30 Synthetic is now recommended as a year round lubricant on the B&S Website. The synthetic products have a much wider operating range with pour points that run 20-30 degrees lower than comparable petroleum oils.

HOW YOU CHOOSE TO APPLY THIS INFORMATION TO YOUR ENGINE BE IT VINTAGE OR LATE MODEL IS ENTIRELY UP TO YOU. CONSULT YOUR ENGINE DOCUMENTATION AND RESEARCH THE TOPIC AS NEEDED.

How do I determine when my Gilson was built?
According to Gilson Service Bulletin #116 Dated December 4, 1978 It gives the following explanation;

In late 1975, we changed to a nine digit serial number. Example:

Serial number 8365B1 569

• 1st digit - calendar year 8=1978
• 2nd through 4th - calendar day of the year 12/31=365th day of the year
• 5th digit - manufacturing assembly line B
• 6th digit - workshift of the day 1st shift
• 7th through 9th digits - consecutive serial number of the unit manufactured that day on assembly line B. (serial numbers run 001 through 999.

What is the horsepower of my engine?
Here is a great online table that picks those numbers apart.

How do I determine when my Briggs and Stratton engine was built?

The CODE number on the engine determines the exact date it was built. Here is a very simplistic way for you to determine the build date. Follow these easy instructions:

We will use a date code of 6905297 for our example.

• The first two digits are the year of manufacture. In this case it is 1969 ( 69 ).
• The next two digits are the month of the year. In this case it is May ( 05 ).
• The next two digits are the day of the month. In this case it is 29 ( 29 ).
• The last one or two digits tell us the plant and assembly line.
• This engine was built May 29, 1969.

The MODEL number describes your basic engine, displacement, carburetor style, horizontal or vertical shaft, and basic output shaft features. The TYPE specifies any unique features, in some cases they can be unique to your particular piece of equipment. As discussed the CODE number identifies when and where the engine was built. It is very important to bring the MODEL, TYPE, and CODE numbers with you when visiting a dealer for parts.

If your engine predates 1965 this site will help you date the engine.

How do I determine when my Tecumseh engine was built?

Locate the ID numbers on your engine they may be stamped in the shroud or in the form of a sticker. Find a number marked as SER and/or D.O.M.. In the example 8105C

• 8 is the least significant digit of the year of manufacture. You're on you own to guess the decade lets say 1998
• 105 is the day of the year, 105 being April 15th
• C represents the line and shift on which the engine was built.

How can I use my wheel pins?

CLICK PINS Many models used these pins with round bails for securing the wheels to the axels. By moving the pins the machine could be made to freewheel. By moving one pin the machine could be rendered one wheel drive for easier handling in light duty.

Many machines included this click pin feature. In this picture the pin passes through the wheel and the axle causing power to be transmitted. Every time the machine moves forward or back these pins move slightly in the holes this causes some hammering of the steel. It is very important do do the following yearly: With less than 1/3 of a tank of gas turn the machine up on it's nose, otherwise just block it to get the tires off of the ground. Remove the click pin. If your click pin has become stiff and has lost it's "click" soak it in oil. Slide the wheel assembly off of the axle, make sure no small spacers come off with the wheel. Inspect the holes on the axle for peening and dress them with a half round file. Apply a liberal coat of motor oil to the exposed shaft. Replace the wheel and click pin Failure to do this can result in displaced axle steel locking the wheel onto the axle making future tear down very difficult, expensive or destructive.

This is the only other valid arrangement of the wheel axel and click pin. In this setup the wheel is free to turn independent of the machines inner workings. This is most useful during off season storage since it will make moving the machine around much easier. On later models "push-on retaining rings" were added so the wheel could not be slid out to the end of the axle. NEVER MOVE THE WHEEL TO THE END OF THE SHAFT AND PIN IT THROUGH THE OUTBOARD HOLE! THE WHEEL MUST ALWAYS REMAIN UP CLOSE TO THE AXLE BUSHING. THIS IS REQUIRED TO KEEP THE AXLE CORRECTLY POSITIONED IN THE MECHANISM, FAILURE TO FOLLOW THIS WARNING WILL ALLOW THE AXLE TO WANDER FROM SIDE TO SIDE AND CAN RESULT IN DAMAGE TO BOTH GEAR DRIVE AND UniTrol MACHINES.

On older machines clevis pins with "hair pin cotters" are mounted inboard to drive the wheels and must remain in place at all times. There is still another version that is pinned as shown in this picture but a retaining clip was added to keep the wheels on while the pins are removed to allow free wheeling.

Why doesn't my machine throw snow very far?
A frequently asked question from the owners of Gilson and other machines concerns throwing distance. There are many things that enter in the throwing distance including the machine, operator technique and natural conditions including the snow and wind.

• If your blower belt is damaged or a poorly chosen substitute for an OEM belt then it may be slipping. It's always best to use the OEM belt. It is worth the few extra dollars.
  • More about Belts
  • Common Gilson Belts
• Your engine should always be running at full speed while blowing snow. it is possible for the governor to be disturbed and not deliver full speed. A small engine tachometer and tools are needed to check and adjust this.
• The most serious cause of poor throwing distance is a damaged impeller. Through heavy use or from ingesting debris the impeller blades can become deformed and reduce performance severely. See these examples of impellers
• My Operating Tips page offers more ideas about getting the most from your unit.

Snowblower versus Snowthrower
Last but not least is the age old question of snowblower versus snowthrower. The 2 terms are often used interchangeably and there probably isn't a definitive answer to it, but here's mine;

• SNOWTHROWER: Also called a single stage machine. The snow is gathered by a high speed auger. When the snow reaches the centerpoint it is hurled upward by the auger and thus THROWN. There are fewer moving parts in these machines but they are all moving very fast so damage can be very sudden and severe. This design is almost always used in tractor attachments because of its shorter overall size.
• SNOWBLOWER: Also called a dual stage machine. The snow is gatherd by a low speed auger and fed back to a high speed impeller that BLOWS the snow up the chute. The lower speed auger is less prone to sudden damage and is generally protected by shear pins. A worm driven auger is preferable to a chain driven one. A worm drive will have a small gearcase between the auger leads griven by a shaft coming through the center of the impeller. A snowblower is preferable under almost all conditions. Remember that you will get the greatest throwing distance when you throw to the side that continues the arc generated by the direction of impeller rotation.
• That's my definition if I'm asked. Actually I have a number of Gilson brochures and it gets even fuzzier. One year they are blowers, the next throwers and in another year they avoid the terms altogether and say "powerful machines" and other such phrases. So as I say, nothings definitive.If you go to Webster.com and type snowblower it will refer to snow thrower for the definition. The definition they provide is essentially that of a single stage machine!

What about belts?
Ideally you will be able to get factory replacement belts for your machine from a local dealer. Make sure you bring all of the information stamped on the snowblowers identification tag or sticker, do not confuse this with the numbers on the engine. The OEM belts were engineered for the machine they fit. How a belt twists and bends as well as the work it does all enters into the design. Keep in mind that since they are special belts they are not always even inch sizes. A 1/2 inch difference can mean a blower that slips if the belt is long or doesn't stop if the belt is on the short side. 1/2 inch length belts are avalable from some sources but will probably require ordering in advance. As a last resort consider adding 1/4 inch spacers under your engine, make them from flat steel barstock. raising the engine 1/4 inch will increase your required belt length by 1/2 inch and get you into an even inch size. This is not a big deal, in fact for years the machines were shipped with sets of 1/8 inch spacers so the machine could be tweaked if things didn't fit up quite right!

All belts are not created equal. You will need "power rated" belts, not "fractional horsepower" grade. The Gates "green line" belts are very good, there also fine belts available from Dayco. You can often get these at power equipment dealers and auto parts stores.

More specific belt information can be found here.

Where is my air cleaner?
Snowblowers do not have air filters. Normal operating conditions are essentially dust free. Your air intake is ducted such that it is shielded from flying debris and the muffler serves to preheat intake air. Air filters would also be prone to icing.

Where do you keep all of your machines?

Where do I Live?
I live in southern Maine (USA), about 10 miles inland, from the Atlantic Ocean. I get a mix of coastal and inland storms, or as the meteorologist have started calling them ,"winter weather events". The Coastal storms have a tendency to include sleet and freezing rain and sometimes end as plain rain, making for a heavy snow pack. Other storms are of the inland variety and include deep snow with blowing and drifting. Our average winter snowfall is 71 inches. Our snowiest winter (1970/71) brought 141.5 inches of the white stuff. In 1979/80 we receievd a scant 27.5 inches of snow. Our most challenging winter storms are those that end as rain, followed just a few hours latter by a long cold spell. If you don't clear it away in time you'll need a pick axe! Freezing rain can coat trees, utility lines and everything else with 1/2 inch or more of ice resulting in fallen limbs, wires and treacherous driving. Just plain snow generally is handled in stride. I clear a little over 10,000 square feet per storm of driveway and paths.