*SAMPLE CHAPTER*

It is a good idea to measure the doorways and stairways leading to where your finished cabinet will live. (optionally you can mount the control panel with brackets so it can be removable should it be too wide for your doorways)

Remember : taking your time on this project will save you from making costly mistakes, if you begin to feel rushed and anxious while working, take a break.

It's a good idea to measure your television's depth before drawing out the side panels, should your television be deeper than the cabinet plan's depth simply scale the cabinet plan's depth to that of the television plus 2" (50mm)

Lay the 1st sheet of 4'X8' (1220x2440mm) material onto the saw-horses, using a sharp pencil draw out the left side of your cabinet, check your measurements twice before cutting it out with your Jig-Saw, while cutting it out be sure to wear safety goggles and hearing protection.

When cutting angles you may need to drill a pilot hole to reposition the jigsaw blade.

Once you have cut out the left side panel place it on top of another sheet of 4'X8' (1220x2440mm) material, line it up square and clamp it in place, using a sharp pencil trace the side panel onto the new sheet and cut it out. For best results switch to a new jig-saw blade now.

If you are NOT going to install T-molding in your cabinet now is a good time to route all sides of the side panels, front and back (except bottom) with the 5/8" (16mm) round over bit .

If you ARE going to install T-molding do NOT get your router out yet.

Now that the side panels are cut out all that remains to be cut will be the center panels (rectangles and squares) following your cabinet plan cut out the remaining pieces. For best results switch to a new jig-saw blade now.

It's a good idea to measure your television before cutting out the other panels, should your television be wider than the cabinet plan's width simply scale the width to that of the television plus 2" (50mm)

If you plan on using acrylic (plexiglass) on top of your control panel cut the control panel out of 5/8" (16mm) material : 5/8" (16mm) wood + 1/8" (3mm) acrylic = 3/4"(19mm) panel (covered in chapter seven)

After all of the panels are cut out it's time to cut the studs. The studs made of 2"X8" (50x200mm) boards will help reinforce the cabinet and make it very strong. Cut out 5 studs to the same width of the panels.

2 studs for the bottom, 2 studs for the middle (to reinforce monitor shelf) and a stud for the top.

Now that all of the pieces are cut out, it is good to mark boundaries on the inside of both side panels before assembly begins. I use an inset of 1/2"(13mm)  on all sides except the bottom, and the material is 3/4" (19mm)  so I will draw a line 1/2" (13mm) in on all sides (except bottom) of the inside of my side panels, this will provide a boundary line when assembling the panels so I don't accidentally compromise my inset. I will also draw a line 1 1/4" (32mm) in on all sides  (except bottom) to provide a visual marker for the back of the panels :1/2" (13mm)  inset + 3/4" (19mm) material = 1 1/4" (32mm)

When I draw my long boundary lines I use the square to mark 1/2" (13mm) and 1 1/4" (32mm) (point A and point B) then connect them by clamping my long ruler and drawing the line.

Next, attach the floor panel. Place your side panel up on the sawhorses and clamp it into place, then mark with a sharp pencil where the floor panel will go, have a helper hold the floor panel while you attach it from under.

Pay attention that the floor panel is not flush with the front of the cabinet : inset plus width of front panel, 1 1/4" (32mm) in this example.

You can use your square and level to help align the panels before attaching them.

Remember : measure everything twice before attaching and verify by 'dry fitting' the panels, if you take your time on this project you will have no costly mistakes.

The procedure for screwing the panels in is a 2" (51mm) coarse thread drywall screw every 3" (76mm), this results in a very strong arcade cabinet.

For every screw :

1st drill a pilot hole using the 3/32" (2.5mm) pilot point drill bit.

(you may like to attach a small level to the top of your drill with duck tape or epoxy to get those pilot holes drilled  straight)

2nd use the 5/8" (16mm) countersink bit to make a shallow countersink.

3rd use the phillips head bit to drive the screw in, the screw should be recessed just a tiny bit to later allow for wood patch to cover it up.


Do this every 3" (76mm) of each panel and stud, but not closer than 2" (50mm) to the edge of each panel.

(driving a screw through the edge of a panel could split the wood)

After you attach the floor panel to the side panel, attach the floor studs to the floor panel and side panel, position the floor studs so that the center of each stud is 10% from the front of the cabinet and 10% from the back.

Mark the location of the studs on the bottom of the cabinet as a guide for later attaching the casters.

Next, attach the roof stud. If you are going to have a roof make sure the roof stud is appropriately recessed.

Now attach the front lower panel, make sure it's position is in keeping with your cabinet's inset.

Then attach the rest of the front panels (excluding control panel and speaker panel)

After, attach the lower rear panel.

I leave my cabinets open on the back for passive cooling of the components and open on the top for passive lighting of the marquee. Alternately, if you prefer a back door, DC fans mounted in the back door and roof connected to a 5v line on the computer power supply could cool the components quietly, and a light can be placed behind the marquee. In this cabinet the lower rear panel is a 2"X8" (50x200mm) board.

Now it's time to attach the other side panel, lay the cabinet on it's side, and line up the other side panel using the boundary lines, dry fit and verify before attaching it with screws.

Then attach the casters to the bottom of the cabinet (into the floor studs).

Locking swivel casters in front, fixed casters in rear, for maximum stability attach the casters close to the edges (I recommend an inset of only 10% on all sides)

Cutting the speaker panel

Now is a good time to cut the speaker panel to accommodate the speaker(s)



First, measure and mark the vertical center on the sides of the panel, then draw a horizontal line connecting them.





Then measure and mark the center of the horizontal line, and draw a vertical line through it using the right-angle.



The horizontal line is now divided into two sides. Measure and mark the center of the left and right sides of the horizontal line, and draw a vertical line through it using the right-angle. This creates the template for either a mono (one speaker) stereo (two speaker) or 2.1 channel system (two speakers and a sub woofer)




An example of mono



An example of stereo



Place the speaker(s) on center with the lines drawn and trace it's shape.



Then measure the speaker's lip and carefully draw it onto the material, as pictured below.





Now, with the router and cutting bit, carefully cut out the inner circle. Cut very sparingly, not completely up to the line : about 1/8" (3mm) from the line all around. Because

too large.





Test fit the speaker and mark where the hole must be enlarged, then shave the marked areas larger with the router, a very small amount at a time, until the speaker fits flush.





Note how the speaker will be mounted, this shows that the routing does not have to be perfect as it will not be seen.



Now the speaker panel is finished, do not install the speakers until after you've painted the cabinet.